Moaning about hormones is a human condition. We all do it, at one time or another. Even guys. But hormones are actually very cool things. They are the chemical messengers that tell various bits of your body what to do and when to do it.
Hormones are made by your pituitary gland, pineal gland, thymus, thyroid, adrenal glands, pancreas, testicles and ovaries. Each of these manufacturing centres makes a specific bunch of hormones, most of which we're not going to talk about. Our job here is to look at the effects of oestrogen, progesterone, androgens and estradiol, i.e. the sex hormones. They are the chemical messengers that are most likely to mess with your skin.
Puberty hormone hell
The transformation from child to adult is a time when the gonadotropin-releasing hormone, GnRH for short, tells ovaries and testes to roar into life. This process can start any time between 7 and 13 in girls and 9 and 15 in guys. As well as getting hairier, curvier, musclier and moodier, humans going through puberty get spottier.
Acne is triggered by an out-pouring of sebum (the skin's natural oil), which clogs pores and provides an ideal breeding ground for propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria that causes acne. Getting skin clean properly clean morning and night is paramount, so we reckon the puberty years are an ideal time to embrace the Okana ritual of double cleansing. Cleansing should always be followed by a mist of toner and a dab of moisturiser. Instead of over-the-counter spot creams, try a tiny amount of New Zealand manuka oil as a night treatment for spotty areas. Salicylic acid preparations are another natural approach to acne treatment.
20 and 30-something cyclic times
Even once your teen years have vanished into the past, hormones will influence your appearance. Sometimes they make you look drop-dead delectable; at other times, more like shiny pizza-face. It's all tied into the menstrual cycle, so you can expect about the same things to happen every month.
- From days 1 to 6 (when you've usually got your period), skin tends to be drier because hormone levels are low. Your focus should be on keeping skin suitably moisturised. Any spots you acquired in the lead up to day 1 will hopefully be on the way out.
- From day 7 to 11, oestrogen production is on the up and up. It's a process that stimulates collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid creation, encouraging the growth of stronger and more elastic skin cells. As your skin cells turnover, your complexion feels more plump, fresh and youthful. Stay focused on exfoliation during this time, to make the most of accelerated cellular turnover.
- From day 12 to 16, oestrogen peaks and your complexion should look amazing. Skin moisture levels are high, pores appear smaller and the increase in collagen and elastin results in total radiance. You'll always look your best at this time of the month (nature's strategy for getting you knocked up, we think).
- From day 17 to 24, oestrogen falls off dramatically and progesterone levels start to rise. This activates oil production, which causes your skin to swell and pores to compress. Unfortunately, this tiny-pore effect tends to trap surplus oil, makeup and grime, which sets the scene for breakouts. Exfoliate every three days and give yourself a home facial around day 21, to clear the deck. Start with a steam over hot water, do an oil cleanse, then apply a clay mask.
- From day 25 to 28, you're into PMS territory. You might be anxious, moody and not sleeping particularly well. To cap it all off, you could be in the midst of a major breakout (less chance if you did the facial at day 21). Hormonal breakouts tend to happen around your chin and along your jawline. Keep up the double-cleansing morning and night; a salicylic acid (beta hydroxyl acid) product could assist too. Be kind to yourself - PMS is not forever.
Pregnancy skin problems
If the radiant gorgeousness described above for day 12 to 16 results in a positive result on the Clearblue strip, your skin is in for a whole lot more hormonal action. Some women glide through pregnancy all glowy and perfect; others revert to a mild form of pubescent acne. The first and second trimesters are the worst, as excess sebum clogs your pores and makes you all shiny in your selfies.
Stay on top of things by religiously double-cleansing every night, exfoliating twice a week and relaxing with a clay mask once a week. Always tone and moisturise after cleansing, scrubbing or masking. Also drink plenty of water and eat your 5+ a day (make that 10+, to ensure the little stranger is as healthy as can be).
Mid-life skin crises
Hormonal upheaval is also a feature of the years leading up to menopause, which usually happens around age 50. During the phase leading up to menopause, called peri-menopause, oestrogen levels can rollercoaster up and down, while androgen levels increase. Androgens are often called 'male hormones', but they have roles in both males and females.
One of the strongest of the androgens, testosterone, can trigger your skin's sebaceous glands to go into overdrive, resulting in menopausal acne. Do the usual drill for excess oiliness and spots: double cleansing, regular exfoliation, clay masks and treatment with either manuka oil or salicylic acid.
Man zits
Hormone hell is a place men know well too. Thanks to lashings of testosterone, they're likely to get acne on their backs as well as their faces. Sweating makes it worse, so sports jocks can really suffer.
If you have a son, boyfriend or husband who's fighting a battle with spots, buy him the Okana Gift Box. He'll only need the cleansers, exfoliator and day cream; you can have the rest.
