The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) recently introduced four new hazard categories targeting endocrine-disrupting chemicals to its CLP regulations. Proof that, with solid legislative bodies, health remains a priority. This situation will most likely worry consumers, especially those outside of Europe, where health regulations are more relaxed.
Consumers worldwide are easily seduced by luxurious fragrances and innovative cosmetics found in the global beauty market. Appealing products with pretty packaging helps consumers forget that a certain number of ingredients contained in the actual products can have a negative impact on their health. This includes endocrine-disrupting chemicals such as avobenzone and octinoxate. However, European and North American consumers are not in the same situation because there are significant differences between the regulations enforced on each side of the Atlantic, especially when it comes to listing ingredients on labels.
Endocrine Disruptors: A Risk That Is Gaining Attention
Endocrine disruptors are chemicals that disturb an organism's hormonal systems and levels. They can imitate, block, or disrupt natural hormone functions, which can lead to a variety of negative health effects, from reproductive abnormalities and metabolic problems to an increased risk for some cancers.
However, the health implications do not stop there. These substances penetrate the skin and have been detected in samples of blood plasma, urine, and breast milk several weeks after being applied topically. This raises serious concerns about their long-term impact on human health.
Mounting evidence shows that endocrine disruptors also increase the risks of infertility. Recent studies demonstrate that women are more vulnerable because of their greater use of products containing these chemicals. For women, a loss of endocrine hormonal balance can lead to a change in the maturation and effectiveness of eggs, cause ovulation not to take place, provoke uterine disorders, and even provoke anomalies in embryos.
UV Filters, Carriers of Endocrine Disruptors
Out of all ingredients found in cosmetics, UV filters stand out as the primary carriers of endocrine disruptors. Initially developed to protect against the negative impacts of the sun, these compounds are now also used in cosmetics to conserve the colors, fragrances, and chemical properties of products. This is particularly true for products like perfumes that need their scents to be preserved as intended.
However, concerns are now being raised about the long-term impact of these compounds on our health. Avobenzone, in particular, deserves special attention. This UV filter has become one of the most commonly used compounds in the cosmetic industry, especially in perfumes. Recent studies reveal an alarming statistic: around 80% of perfumes on the market contain avobenzone. This number underscores just how much we are exposed to this substance: while sunscreens are used on more of a seasonal basis, many people use perfumes and products containing fragrances almost daily.
Research and statistical data, therefore, show that there is a huge presence of endocrine disruptors in perfumes, even though their use in sunscreen is more widely known. This means that there is a major problem with public information because consumers are not fully informed of this reality and, therefore, cannot make educated choices. Such a lack of information should be unacceptable in any market that values the health and well-being of consumers.
Regulatory Loopholes in Fragrance Ingredient Labelling
In Europe, information about the chemical compositions of cosmetics in general, and particularly perfumes, is provided by ECHA. In application of the EU's "Classification, Labelling and Packaging" (CLP) regulation that went into effect in 2009, ECHA regularly updates information using new scientific research. The CLP regulation requires manufacturers and distributors to make certain information available to the public.
This means that consumers are informed about the chemical composition of perfumes with ingredients listed in order of the quantities contained, but without any specific percentages for them. Such efforts for transparency mean that consumers are made aware of the presence of toxic substances, including avobenzone, in fragrances. However, only a tiny number of consumers are able to link the more well-known names to the scientific names of chemicals (avobenzone becomes Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), and few know that they are endocrine disruptors.
Plus, the European system has its limits. While Europe typically imposes regulations requiring transparency for labeling, a recent study reveals the contradictions in current EU regulations by showing that almost 50% of the UV filters approved for use under its directives for cosmetics are actually considered as dangerous by the CLP.
In comparison, regulations in the U.S. can be considered lenient at best. To start, in terms of products that are authorized, Europe has banned over 1300 ingredients used in cosmetics, whereas the U.S. has only banned 11. Furthermore, regarding information provided to the public, consumers in the U.S. are virtually uninformed about the chemical compositions of their fragrances. For example, there is no information about the use of UV filters like avobenzone, even though they are known to be endocrine disruptors. Research and resources provided by organizations like the Environmental Working Group (EWG) and What's In Products have underscored the dangers posed by these chemicals, yet the opaque nature of US labeling practices continues to shield them from public scrutiny. According to EWG analysis, the fragrance industry has published safety assessments for only 34% of the unlabeled ingredients.
In the U.S., even for fragrances that are identical to those found in the European market, manufacturers are under no obligation to display ingredients. This means consumers cannot make informed choices about their purchases and cannot make the conscious decision not to purchase products containing avobenzone.
In the end, regardless of whether we are talking about Europe or the United States, the problem, beyond the difference in transparency of information, remains the same. How can we accept that 80% of perfumes, which consumers use on a daily basis, contain chemicals that have been proven to be hazardous to people's health?
